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The route is the world's second 9c. in the first ascent of Bibliography (9c). It is the second route of the grade ever, after Adam Ondra's Silence. With Adam Ondra’s incredible ascent of Silence, the world’s first 5.15d or 9c, still fresh in the news, speculation has already started as to when another climber will achieve this level. For more, see Niall Grimes Jam Crack Climbing Podcast. Tenaya athlete Alex Megos makes the first ascent of Bibliographie (9c/5.15d), Céüse, France. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded 9a (5.14d). Alex can climb 9c (or more) if he is to improve aerobic efficiency, gain movement economy or improve route tactics like unusual rest positions, speed or greater flexibility for specialist moves. When Alex Megos clipped the chains of Bibliographie on August 5th, he finished an uncharacteristically-long journey, which he wasn’t sure he’d ever complete. How? If you have any doubts, please read the original version in German. Watch the new video of the send below. Is Adam Ondra's Route Silence even 9c + or 10a? This article has been translated automatically. And this rig took him 60, so he rated it 9c. 2. The Czech climber Adam Ondra advanced to magical grade 9c for the first time in 2017. 06/08/2020 Il essayait cette ligne du secteur Biographie en fil rouge chaque été depuis plusieurs années, Alex Megos a libéré son super-projet à Céüse hier avec la première ascension de “Bibliographie” ! Your blog can not share any posts via email. Photo: Ken Etzel. 47.1k Likes, 1,041 Comments - Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Instagram: “Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. A completely new experience for Alex. Puede contener errores e informaciones falsas. We asked him for some further comments and … Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c. Er nannte sie „Bibliographie“ und schlägt dafür den Grad 9c vor. Alex Megos klettert zweite 9c der Welt in Ceuse, Frankreich. On August 5, 2020, the German professional climber Alexander Megos managed the first ascent of the Bibliography route in Céüse. That was definitely a key event. The German professional climber Alexander Megos successfully climbs the route Bibliographie in Céüse. It was originally bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. The second catalyst for the ascent was the moment when Alex was able to climb the bouldering section of the route from below. Despite this relativization, Alex concludes that it is a milestone in his climbing career. In the last three years , Alexander Megos invested around 60 days of projecting the route Bibliographypie in the French sport climbing mecca Céüse . Do you like our climbing magazine? The German professional climber Alexander Megos successfully climbs the route Bibliographie in Céüse. Niall Grimes Zoom chats with Alex Megos about his latest 9c, Bibliography at Ceuse. On the 5 th of August, Alex Megos climbed his long-term Ceuse project, Bibliographie, with ‘one last go’ on the last day of his trip. The route runs beside Biographie— the world’s first consensus 9a+ (5.15a), established by Chris Sharma 2001—in Céüse, France, and is 35 meters (115 feet). Alexander Megos knows what he's talking about. 26-year-old German climber Alex Megos making the first ascent of Bibliographie at Céüse, the second 9c in the world, in August 2020 Photo by Ken Etzel Alexander Megos climbing Bibliographie 9c at Céüse in France. Megos needed 16 days for Perfecto Mundo, so a 9c (5.15d) should take about 32 days. I was finally able to climb over the key point from the start. On August 5th Alex Megos climbed "Bibliographie" and given the climb a grade of 9c / 5.15d. Este artículo es el resultado de una traducción automática. This article has been translated automatically. On August 5, 2020, the German professional climber Alexander Megos managed the first ascent of the Bibliography route in Céüse. Alex Megos enchaîne un potentiel 9c à Céüse ! Germany vs. Great Britain - Where was the first 9a climbed in the world? Alex Megos konnte eine Toproute erstbegehen. In 2017, Megos won silver in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. Schubert does all moves on Megos 9c. Prior to this ascent, he completed the first ascent of Perfecto Mundo (5.15c) in 2018. Es wäre nach „Silence“ von Adam Ondra die zweite Route in diesem Grad. Alex Megos never met a route he couldn’t climb in short order…that was until he encountered Bibliographie, an undone sport line at the French super-crag, Céüse. En caso de dudas, por favor consulte la versión original en Alemán. In 2013, he completed the first-ever onsight of a 9a [5.14d] route with Estado Critico. Invested 60 climbing days spread over several years Alexander Megos. Because he usually makes short work of difficult routes. He has climbed numerous routes in the ninth degree, including lines like Biography (9a +), Fight Club (9b) or Perfecto Mundo (9b +). I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. Yesterday…” Do you like our climbing magazine? Puede contener errores e informaciones falsas. Last year we shared the Patagonia climbing film, Rotpunkt, featuring Alex Megos’ unusually dedicated life of climbing. Germany vs. Great Britain - Where was the first 9a climbed in the world? This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult. Climbing confirmed as an Olympic discipline in 2024, Alex Rohr in an interview about the first ascent of The Back of Beyond (9a). Letztmals derart in Erstaunen versetzt hatte Megos die Kletterwelt 2013, als es ihm als erstem Kletterer überhaupt gelungen war, eine 9a Route onsight zu klettern. Perfecto Mundo has taken me 16 days of effort, Bibliographie with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. It was originally bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent. You will find out here.. Post was not sent - check e-mail address! Hier, dans la soirée, Alex Megos s'est rendu à la pizzeria "Le Crux" de Céüse pour acheter à manger et pour fêter une croix historique qui pourrait peut-être prétendre au titre de voie la plus dure du monde : "Bibliographie". Suddenly had Alex Megos Time - a lot of time. So he decided to go to Céüse as soon as possible. Alex Megos is an obvious candidate. Gedenk dessen, dass er in seiner bisherigen Toproute „Perfecto Mundo“ 16 Tage zu brachte und jetzt immerhin 60 Tage, über einige Jahre verteilt benötigte, ist es wohl gerechtfertigt. En caso de dudas, por favor consulte la versión original en Alemán. Yesterday evening, August 05, 2020, the German successfully climbed the route and suggested 9c as the difficulty. Whether I was too optimistic. After 60 days of effort this is now the most difficult … On the path to the send he encountered doubts … The Route Silence was the first 9c route in the world and remained so for the following three years. Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c 06.08.2020 di Planetmountain At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. He is the only climber besides Adam Ondra to complete a 5.15c first ascent. Alex Megos is one of the most accomplished sport climbers of all time. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent. So I knew I could climb the route. – Alex Megos frees Bibliographie 9b+ or 9c in Céüse! Just a single step up in str… Alex Megos klettert Bibliographie 9c Dem deutschen Profi Alexander Megos gelingt die Erstbegehung der Route Bibliographie in Céüse. Two aspects were of central importance for the on-site visit. The route is the world's second 9c. E l mundo de la escalada aguanta la respiración ante la última proeza de If you have any doubts, please read the original version in German. Megos has also climbed V15 in 30 minutes, which generally means, with the right motivation and time, he could very likely climb V16. It will stay that way, because we want to provide as many like-minded people with news from the climbing scene.In order to be more independent of advertising revenue in the future and to provide you with even more and better content, we need your support.Therefore: Help and support our magazine with a small contribution. Projecting a single route over such a long period of time, apart from the physical challenge, is a mental roller coaster. Plus tôt dans la journée, nous vous annoncions que Alex Megos avait réalisé son projet : « Bibliographie », un potentiel 9c à Céüse.Ce soir, aux alentours de 21h, Alex a publié sur Instagram un post expliquant son run et confirmant la cotation 9c : 315.1k Followers, 99 Following, 834 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) Alex suggests 9c as the level of difficulty for the route. It might contain mistakes or wrong information. This long term project is now the second 9c climb in the world! When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. In den letzten Jahren investierte Alexander Megos rund zwei Monate in diese Route, die im französischen Sportkletter-Mekka Céüse . Este artículo es el resultado de una traducción automática. It might contain mistakes or wrong information. On the one hand, the world was under the spell of the corona pandemic, all competitions were canceled and the Summer Olympics postponed for a year. Photo: Ken Etzel. Naturally you benefit multiple times. Climber Alex Megos takes on his most difficult ascent yet and leaves a lot of skin on the rock. You will find out here.. Post was not sent - check e-mail address! After taking approximately 60 climbing days Alex suggested a grade of 9c (5.15d). Adam will struggle to climb harder than 9c without addressing basic levels of strength and power as he’s already such an efficient climber. When we launched LACRUX, we decided not to introduce a payment barrier. Initially the news was rumored and the grade unconfirmed apart from other's comments. There is plenty of news out there already (as well as some great stories on Alex… Based on their tick lists, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos are two of, if not the top two, sport climbers in the world. Alex puts this very concrete announcement into perspective. Alex Megos never met a route he couldn’t climb in short order, that was until he encountered Bibliographie, a project at Céüse. Again and again there were doubts whether the route could be climbed at all. Film with Adam Ondra on the celebration of the world's first 9c, Interview: Bernd Zangerl opens Trad-Route Grenzenlos in the Valle Dell'Orco. Friday, 4 September Jakob Schubert, the best male competition climber the last ten years who did his first 9b+ last year, reported on Insta that he had tried Alex Megos Bibliographie 9c in Céüse. 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