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And that? The GEM, as it’s already called, will open in the next year. History's first great woman ruler is remembered for a 20-year reign of general peace and stability. Watch Travels in Europe with Rick Steves - Season 4, Episode 2 - Egypt: Rick transports down Egypt's less-traveled roads. By about 1500 BC, pharaohs stopped building pyramids and began hiding their tombs instead. Heba: It's easier. These are monolithic and carved out of a single piece of granite. The Coptic quarter comes with high security. These are the hieroglyphs, one of the most ancient written languages because of which we understood a lot about the civilization of ancient Egypt. Remarkably, Tut's actual mummy lies nearby. You can get whatever you need around here — including a quick trim before dinner. In fact, it's said that many of the stones from the lighthouse were dredged out of the sea to help build it. Cairo, straddling the Nile, is the biggest city in North Africa and the biggest in the Middle East. The sarcophagus is bigger than the passageway — so this must have been here first, and then the pyramid built around it. Merchant: Big size, for you. An avenue of battered sphinxes leads to the awe-inspiring main entrance, heralding the Temples of Karnak. Tarek: It's a tobacco flavored with different tastes. Her formidable army carried weapons, but also carried olive branches, the ancient symbol of peace. A remarkable thing about ancient Egyptian art and society as a whole was its stability. And Alexandria was famously home to perhaps the greatest library in the ancient world. Statues show the queen wearing a beard — a symbol of royalty. What are these? No cry! The Luxor Temple is particularly dramatic at twilight. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Egypt's heritage goes back twice as far as ancient Rome. Rick: And Heba, what do you wish for your daughters, to be successful and to be happy? Caked in this generation's grime as the city's population has exploded, it's become a thoroughly Egyptian metropolis of over 5 million. The Holy Land: Israelis and Palestinians Today, ©2020 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | We haggle with a gauntlet of eager merchants, venture into the back streets local-style, and help chisel a tombstone. Workers dragged over 2 million huge stones up ramps, eventually constructing this 450-foot-high monument. While many modern Muslims would prefer a separation of mosque and state, others believe Egypt should be ruled in accordance with a strict interpretation of the Quran. A game changer for Egypt, it tamed the Nile providing electricity and controlling the flow of the once-erratic river. What is the fish? Nelly: That's tahini; that's baba ghanoush. Rick Steves' Europe is public television's most-watched, longest-running travel series. Bon appétit. What is this one? Download image. The tomb of Ramses IV was typical. Rick: I just go…? Smaller text Larger text. Smaller text Larger text. Heba: Bon appétit, yeah. Rick: So, Israeli, Turkish, Greek… And so today we claim this is Egyptian. It's the capital of Egypt and one of the leading cities in Islam. Teeming Cairo, straddling the Nile, is the capital of Egypt and one of the leading cities of the Muslim world. Rick: We dip our bread in this? This grandest of all pyramids — 700 feet long on each side — was built 2,500 years before Christ. In the teeming metropolis of Cairo, he climbs to the center of … Scenes crescendo in beauty as they glide gracefully by either side of the boat. Rick: Thank you. And small bakeries are steadily producing hot balloons of pita bread — destined to be filled with falafel. As old as the pyramids, it was carved out of a piece of hard rock that stuck above the limestone plateau. And it's cheap and easy to simply hire one for a clip-clop joy ride around town. In a mosque, men and women worship separately. Watch, Read, Listen; Travel Forum; Shop Online; Rick Steves' Europe. Ever since the forces of Islam swept across North Africa from Arabia in the seventh century, spreading the teaching of their prophet Mohammed, Cairo has been a leading city of the Muslim world. The riverfront throbs with energy — stately bridges busy with traffic, fancy riverside restaurants, and towering apartment complexes. Massive blocks of apartment flats spring up, many violating building codes, to congest the ever-growing suburbs. An inviting gathering point for Alexandrians, the library feels promising, perhaps offering a chance to see the next generation of this country's leaders. Rick: [surprised cough] They're for the wives and daughters. As always, I appreciate the services of a guide, so I'll understand the symbolism and know what to look for. There's no menu — just point to what looks tasty. And on the Nile, after sailing on a timeless felucca, we upgrade to a riverboat and kick back while enjoying iconic views of palm trees, minarets, and rustic villages. Heba: Bailhana' walshifa'. As praying can be physical, with lots of bending over, it's considered more respectful to allow woman their own space. And today, Cairo's known as the city of a thousand minarets. Can you give me please a tour of this beautiful Egyptian meal? The art looks essentially the same from century to century. Religion permeated Egyptian society. After Cairo and the pyramids at Giza, we tour Alexandria and Luxor. And grand European-style boulevards graced the city. Alright? Rick: Shisha. Every year the Nile would flood, bringing water and fertile silt to the land. In Luxor, we revel in the glories of the pharaohs — their temples and their hidden tombs. Ruling around 1400 BC, he was considered history's first monotheist. Video: Watch "Egypt's Cairo," an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. This first-ever towering stone structure is more than just a grave marker. Download image, Rick in Alexandria, Egypt’s second city. A little shaft was designed into the pyramid to provide an escape passage for the soul of the pharaoh. Imagine what it took to build all this: They had to design it, quarry the stones, ship 'em, stack 'em, smooth 'em, carve 'em, paint 'em — all for the glory and favor of the gods. Akhenaten replaced all the gods of the Egyptian pantheon with one all-powerful being, the sun god, whom he called "Aten.". Rick: Ah good, yeah! Even if you don't understand its long and complicated history, just observing how old and new come together is rewarding to the traveler. Smaller text Larger text. It had a long ramp, intricately carved and painted, leading to the burial chamber. Thanks for joining us. In Luxor, we explore the pharaohs’ tombs and temples before sailing on a timeless felucca. Get Started; Community Guidelines; Shop Online; Rick Steves' Europe. These tombs — buried deep in the folds of this valley — proved to be more secure than the intentionally high-profile pyramids. Ancient Alexandria was home to two of antiquity's greatest sights, neither of which survive: a huge library, and an awe-inspiring lighthouse, one of the wonders of the ancient world, built in around 300 BC. OK, you can buy it. Ramses' wife and some of his children — considered less important and therefore smaller in scale — ‑are at his feet. RICK STEVES EGYPT: YESTERDAY AND TODAY Tarek: This is "denise" [sea bream] from the Mediterranean. Today, its legacy survives in the city's modern library. In addition to its political energy, the city's long been a religious capital. Pyramids — Blockbuster Egypt. Luxor's riverfront is busy with boats, big and small. Like church spires and minarets, an obelisk marked a holy place. Rick: That looks great. For 2,000 years — from 3000 to 1000 BC — relative to other times and other cultures, very little changed. — “Rick Steves Egypt: Yesterday and Today” Join me for my new hour-long special, as we sail beyond Europe and explore the historic and cultural wonders of Egypt. Luxor is a standard stop on the tourist's itinerary. If you see something you like, show some interest and see how low you can get the price. According to my abacus, that's 200,000 man-years of hard labor. The people of today's Egypt represent the latest chapter in a story that goes back 5,000 years. It was used once a year for an elaborate festival feast celebrating fertility: fertility of the land, the people, and the kingdom. What country wouldn't want to claim this as their national cuisine? The heart of Cairo is Tahrir Square. After a timeless felucca cruise on the Nile, we finish at the temple ruins of Abu Simbel. It's a jam-packed city of over 20 million. Daughter: Sometimes on Friday or Thursday we watch on the TV, Netflix — we choose an English movie. The many columns of this vast hall once supported a stone ceiling. On this pedestal sat a statue of the top god, Amon-Ra. So, what is this one? Our finale: Ramesses II's magnificent temple at Abu Simbel. Cairo sprawls. Determined to assert her authority, her propaganda even showed her dressed as a male ruler. We weren't there to get a "pulse of modern Egypt" or anything like that. Rick Steves shares his extensive knowledge of European history, art and culture. Travel with Rick on this video guide up the Nile River in Egypt and find out what to do on your next trip. As you venture farther into the complex, things get older and crescendo in religious importance. Rick Steves' Europe Latest Episode. The Mediterranean region shares many delicious and similar dishes. With an innovative stacking of layers, it provided a new way to glorify a king: [by] creating a stairway to eternity. In the relative cool of the evening, the prosperous streets of downtown are filled with window shoppers and thriving eateries — clearly a world for Egypt's more privileged class. Rick: Heba, this is so beautiful. Stepping into the Al Hussein mosque, like [with] any neighborhood mosque, you'll find a worshipful tranquility. The traditional felucca — long a hard-working cargo boat — now hauls vacationing tourists. After guiding ships from across the Mediterranean safely into port for 15 centuries, in about the year 1300, an earthquake hit, and it tumbled into the sea. The corniche was lined by fine Art Deco buildings from the early 20th century. Teeming Cairo, straddling the Nile, is the capital of Egypt and one of the leading cities of the Muslim world. The big news for tourism in Egypt is the massive new “Grand Egyptian Museum” being built in Giza at the great pyramids. Tarek: …and delicious! Then we explore Alexandria's back lanes and visit the pharaohs' temples and hidden tombs at Luxor. Marwa: Papyrus is made out of the stem of the plant papyrus. Rick: Yeah. And finally, in the sacred sanctuary, Ramses assumes his place in the company of the gods. In fact, this city helped spearhead Egypt's Arab Spring revolution back in 2011. Rick: A lot of people in the United States, they'd say this would be a "hookah" or a "hubbly-bubbly." In Alexandria, we delve into a vibrant market and smoke a shisha. Heba: …very delicious, and this is Egyptian beef with onion sauce, and this is of course, rice, and this is, then, rokak… Throughout Egypt, travelers will notice armed guards, security barriers, and a high-profile police presence. Watch, Read, Listen; Travel Forum; Shop Online; Rick Steves' Europe. Along with minarets, you'll see church spires — especially in Cairo's Coptic quarter. While most sightseers cross the river on a fleet of touristy shuttles, we're riding on the public ferry with the locals. This was the most sacred spot in all of Egypt. Obelisks symbolically connected earth with the gods. see our FAQ. This structure — which marked his tomb — is a "step pyramid." My Account. (1/60) (TV-PG, Stereo, CC). Rick: This is a beautiful scene. Today it's a stop for every tour group and the merchants are standing by…. Long stretches pass by timeless slices of Egyptian life as vacationers have little option but to relax and live at the pace of the steady boat heading against the current of the fabled river. For ancient Egyptians, the Nile — which flows from south to north — divided their world into two logical halves. With Rick Steves. Ironically, rather than protecting tombs, the pyramids were actually attracting thieves. While the temple may have been dedicated to the gods, it seems all the statues celebrate the great pharaoh, Ramses II. The most famous tomb in the valley is of King Tutankhamun — a.k.a. Ethiopia: A Development Story - Venturing beyond Europe, and with local experts as his guides, Rick uses Ethiopia as a classroom for understanding global hunger and extreme poverty — and how to beat it. But the oldest pyramid is actually nearby at Saqqara, the tomb of the king or pharaoh named Zoser. Then, we cruise the Nile, check out Aswan, and finish in Abu Simbel. Towering before us are the tombs of three great kings, or "pharaohs." Merchant: No money, no honey. I know about six words of Arabic — but it didn't stop the smiles. After the museum, Cairo's characteristic old quarter is a colorful celebration of today's Egypt. I love to hop in one for a quick joyride. Venturing there to learn and scout for a TV show won’t really help my business directly. The harborfront corniche is lined with cafes, restaurants, and people out enjoying the scene. Rick: If I smoke and smoke and smoke, will I get dizzy? I hope the future will be more relaxed, but for now, I splurge for the peace of mind. To the ancient Egyptians, it seemed logical to live on the east bank, where the sun rises, and bury your dead on the west bank, where the sun dies each evening. So, we're joined by my friend and fellow guide, Marwa Abbas. Experts guess that with 10,000 laborers hard at work, it took 20 years to build the pyramid of Cheops. Temple of Queen Hatshepsut. Heba: Bailhana' walshifa'. You obey the rules. Long, secret corridors, originally blocked by sliding stones, lead to the tomb chamber deep in the center of each pyramid. So, these are beautiful paintings of the afterlife. Tarek: This is fried calamari from the Mediterranean, too, and fried prawns. Ancient Egyptians preserved bodies through a complex process of mummification in hopes that the soul could re-inhabit it in the next world. With the Nile now tamed, farming in Egypt is possible throughout the year. Heba: OK, and this is okra with tomato sauce… They're surrounded by reliefs showing off his power. In the teeming metropolis of Cairo, we climb to the center of a pyramid, greet the Sphinx, and marvel at King Tut’s gold. Alexandria can feel spirited, young, and progressive. After two lazy days, we reach the city of Aswan, the last major port on the river. Smaller text Larger text. An ancient garrison town famed for its granite quarries, today it's embraced tourism, taking full advantage of its attractive riverfront. And we're heading for the Valley of the Kings and the ancient tombs. Memories of so many vivid snapshots of humanity. From their palaces here, they proudly ruled a united kingdom — Upper and Lower Egypt together. That's why, if you had the power and money, you'd lock everything up in a big tomb — a pyramid. The trip upriver takes you by natural beauty and seemingly ancient scenes interrupted only by modern cruise boats. Download image, Rick sampling nibbles in the market in Luxor, Egypt. In this hour-long special, Rick Steves sails beyond Europe, exploring the historic and cultural wonders of Egypt. RICK STEVES EGYPT: YESTERDAY & TODAY sails beyond Europe, exploring the historic and cultural wonders of Egypt. Then, when the Ottoman Turks took Egypt, it became a bustling Turkish bazaar. Bargaining is expected in Egyptian markets; treat it as a game. In the teeming metropolis of Cairo, Rick climbs to the center of … Rick: So fried eggplant and tahini, you find this in many countries in the Mediterranean. The souvenir I take home? And here, burrowed into an arid mountain range, is the Valley of the Kings, where mummified pharaohs hide out with their treasures, awaiting the eternity express. Together, we witness the importance of water, education, empowering women, and nutrition during a child's first thousand days. 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